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Pilgrim in the Palace of Words - Glenn Dixon


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      Pilgrim in the Palace of Words

      Pilgrim in the

      Palace of Words

      A Journey Through the

      6,000 Languages of Earth

      Glenn Dixon

      Copyright © Glenn Dixon, 2009

      All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise (except for brief passages for purposes of review) without the prior permission of Dundurn Press. Permission to photocopy should be requested from Access Copyright.

      Editor: Michael Carroll

      Design: Courtney Horner

      Printer: Webcom

       Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication

      Dixon, Glenn, 1957-

       Pilgrim in the palace of words : a journey through the 6,000 languages of earth / by Glenn Dixon.

      Includes bibliographical references and index.

      ISBN 978-1-55488-433-9

      1. Dixon, Glenn, 1957---Travel. 2. Sociolinguistics. 3. Language and languages--Philosophy. 4. Voyages and travels. I. Title.

      P40.D59 2009 306.44 C2009-903002-0

      1 2 3 4 5 13 12 11 10 09

      We acknowledge the support of the Canada Council for the Arts and the Ontario Arts Council for our publishing program. We also acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program and The Association for the Export of Canadian Books, and the Government of Ontario through the Ontario Book Publishers Tax Credit program, and the Ontario Media Development Corporation.

      The Sappho translation is reprinted by permission of the publisher and the Trustees of the Loeb Classical Library from Greek Lyric Poetry: Volume 1, Sappho and Alcaeus. Loeb Classical Library Volume 142, translated by David A. Campbell, Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1982. Copyright by the President and Fellows of Harvard University.

      Care has been taken to trace the ownership of copyright material used in this book. The author and the publisher welcome any information enabling them to rectify any references or credits in subsequent editions.

       J. Kirk Howard, President

      Published by The Dundurn Group

      Printed and bound in Canada.

       www.dundurn.com

Dundurn Press 3 Church Street, Suite 500 Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5E 1M2 Gazelle Book Services Limited White Cross Mills High Town, Lancaster, England LA1 4XS Dundurn Press 2250 Military Road Tonawanda, NY U.S.A. 14150

      The limits of my language mean the limits of my world.

      — Ludwig Wittgenstein

      Photograph Captions

      All photographs were taken by Glenn Dixon.

      Part One: Prayers at the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem.

      Part Two: A temple in the Monkey Forest Sanctuary in Ubud, Bali.

      Part Three: Bora Bora, the most beautiful island on Earth.

      Part Four: Painted black with a stylized raven near the bow in white, this Haida canoe is called a t’luu. It is the same as the ones the Haida have used for thousands of years.

      Contents

       5 On the Roof of the World

       6 The Heart of Darkness

       7 One Thousand Words for Rice

       PART THREE Under the Southern Cross

       8 Islands of the Many-Coloured Waters

       9 See You at Machu Picchu

       10 The Headwaters of the Amazon

       PART FOUR To the North

       11 The Lost World of the Maya

       12 Haida: The Surface People

       13 May You Walk the Trail of Beauty

       Epilogue: The Unimaginable Future

       Bibliography

       Acknowledgements

       Index

      The airport security guard hauled me into a back room. “Step behind the curtain, please, and take off your clothes.”

      “What do you mean?” I asked helplessly. “Everything?”

      “Everything.”

      I stripped clumsily, my two pale feet hopscotching behind the thin curtain. Outside I could hear the guard flipping through my passport. I was sure he was eyeing the stamps from the Muslim countries I’d been to, and could well imagine his lips pursing in disapproval.

      It’s not so easy getting into Jerusalem. The whole place can be something like a war zone. The guard returned, took a quick look, and then asked me to dress and come out to identify my belongings. My backpack had already been hauled out of the plane and its contents had been placed on a long metal table. There was my toothbrush and my underpants neatly stacked in front of me. I’d flown in on the Israeli national airline — El Al — and it wasn’t taking any chances.


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