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       I looked around; I was at Harris's bed, a Sabbath-day's journey from my own. There was only one sofa; it was against the wall; there was only

       one chair where a body could get at it--I had been revolving around it like a planet, and colliding with it like a comet half the night.

       I explained how I had been employing myself, and why. Then the landlord's party left, and the rest of us set about our preparations for breakfast, for the dawn was ready to break. I glanced furtively at my pedometer, and found I had made 47 miles. But I did not care, for I had come out for a pedestrian tour anyway.

       CHAPTER XIV

       [Rafting Down the Neckar]

       When the landlord learned that I and my agents were artists, our party rose perceptibly in his esteem; we rose still higher when he learned

       that we were making a pedestrian tour of Europe.

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       He told us all about the Heidelberg road, and which were the best places to avoid and which the best ones to tarry at; he charged me less than

       cost for the things I broke in the night; he put up a fine luncheon

       for us and added to it a quantity of great light-green plums, the pleasantest fruit in Germany; he was so anxious to do us honor that he would not allow us to walk out of Heilbronn, but called up Goetz von Berlichingen's horse and cab and made us ride.

       I made a sketch of the turnout. It is not a Work, it is only what artists call a "study"--a thing to make a finished picture from. This sketch has several blemishes in it; for instance, the wagon is not traveling as fast as the horse is. This is wrong. Again, the person trying to get out of the way is too small; he is out of perspective,

       as we say. The two upper lines are not the horse's back, they are the reigns; there seems to be a wheel missing--this would be corrected in a finished Work, of course. This thing flying out behind is not a flag,

       it is a curtain. That other thing up there is the sun, but I didn't get enough distance on it. I do not remember, now, what that thing is that is in front of the man who is running, but I think it is a haystack or a

       woman. This study was exhibited in the Paris Salon of 1879, but did not take any medal; they do not give medals for studies.

       We discharged the carriage at the bridge. The river was full of logs--long, slender, barkless pine logs--and we leaned on the rails

       of the bridge, and watched the men put them together into rafts. These rafts were of a shape and construction to suit the crookedness and

       extreme narrowness of the Neckar. They were from fifty to one hundred

       yards long, and they gradually tapered from a nine-log breadth at their

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       sterns, to a three-log breadth at their bow-ends. The main part of the steering is done at the bow, with a pole; the three-log breadth there furnishes room for only the steersman, for these little logs are not

       larger around than an average young lady's waist. The connections of the several sections of the raft are slack and pliant, so that the raft

       may be readily bent into any sort of curve required by the shape of the river.

       The Neckar is in many places so narrow that a person can throw a dog across it, if he has one; when it is also sharply curved in such places,

       the raftsman has to do some pretty nice snug piloting to make the turns. The river is not always allowed to spread over its whole bed--which is

       as much as thirty, and sometimes forty yards wide--but is split into three equal bodies of water, by stone dikes which throw the main volume, depth, and current into the central one. In low water these neat

       narrow-edged dikes project four or five inches above the surface, like

       the comb of a submerged roof, but in high water they are overflowed. A hatful of rain makes high water in the Neckar, and a basketful produces an overflow.

       There are dikes abreast the Schloss Hotel, and the current is violently swift at that point. I used to sit for hours in my glass cage, watching the long, narrow rafts slip along through the central channel, grazing the right-bank dike and aiming carefully for the middle arch of the stone bridge below; I watched them in this way, and lost all this time

       hoping to see one of them hit the bridge-pier and wreck itself sometime or other, but was always disappointed. One was smashed there one morning, but I had just stepped into my room a moment to light a pipe,

       so I lost it.

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       While I was looking down upon the rafts that morning in Heilbronn, the daredevil spirit of adventure came suddenly upon me, and I said to my

       comrades:

       "I am going to Heidelberg on a raft. Will you venture with me?"

       Their faces paled a little, but they assented with as good a grace as they could. Harris wanted to cable his mother--thought it his duty to do that, as he was all she had in this world--so, while he attended to this, I went down to the longest and finest raft and hailed the captain with a hearty "Ahoy, shipmate!" which put us upon pleasant terms at

       once, and we entered upon business. I said we were on a pedestrian tour to Heidelberg, and would like to take passage with him. I said this

       partly through young Z, who spoke German very well, and partly through

       Mr. X, who spoke it peculiarly. I can UNDERSTAND German as well as the maniac that invented it, but I TALK it best through an interpreter.

       The captain hitched up his trousers, then shifted his quid thoughtfully. Presently he said just what I was expecting he would say--that he had no license to carry passengers, and therefore was afraid the law would be after him in case the matter got noised about or any accident happened. So I CHARTERED the raft and the crew and took all the responsibilities on myself.

       With a rattling song the starboard watch bent to their work and hove

       the cable short, then got the anchor home, and our bark moved off with a stately stride, and soon was bowling along at about two knots an hour.

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       Our party were grouped amidships. At first the talk was a little gloomy,

       and ran mainly upon the shortness of life, the uncertainty of it, the

       perils which beset it, and the need and wisdom of being always prepared for the worst; this shaded off into low-voiced references to the dangers of the deep, and kindred matters; but as the gray east began to redden and the mysterious solemnity and silence of the dawn to give place

       to the joy-songs of the birds, the talk took a cheerier tone, and our spirits began to rise steadily.

       Germany, in the summer, is the perfection of the beautiful, but nobody has understood, and realized, and enjoyed the utmost possibilities of

       this soft and peaceful beauty unless he has voyaged down the Neckar on a raft. The motion of a raft is the needful motion; it is gentle,

       and gliding, and smooth, and noiseless; it calms down all feverish activities, it soothes to sleep all nervous hurry and impatience; under

       its restful influence all the troubles and vexations and sorrows that

       harass the mind vanish away, and existence becomes a dream, a charm, a deep and tranquil ecstasy. How it contrasts with hot and perspiring pedestrianism, and dusty and deafening railroad rush, and tedious jolting behind tired horses over blinding white roads!

       We went slipping silently along, between the green and fragrant banks, with a sense of pleasure and contentment that grew, and grew, all the time. Sometimes the banks were overhung with thick masses of willows that wholly hid the ground behind; sometimes we had noble hills on one hand, clothed densely with foliage to their tops, and on the other hand open levels blazing with poppies, or clothed in the rich blue of

       the corn-flower; sometimes we drifted in the shadow of forests, and

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