The Swiss Alps. Kev ReynoldsЧитать онлайн книгу.
Alternatively, for those whose interest is in tackling climbs on the SE Face of the Dents du Midi, the unmanned 20-place Refuge des Dents du Midi is situated just below the almost level Plan Névé glacier at 2884m, and may be reached in about 3–3½hrs from the lake. From this hut both the South Face and WSW Ridge of the Cime de l’Est are obvious attractions; the first offering an exposed PD route with some delicate pitches of III; while the WSW Ridge via the Col de la Cime de l’Est provides the easiest route to the summit (F with pitches of II).
The massive triangular
Though not so well known as the Tour des Dents du Midi described in 1:2, the clockwise Tour du Ruan is another multi-day trek worth the consideration of walkers wishing to understand better the topography of this corner of the Alps. Roughly half the route is spent across the French border, and views are memorable on every stage. (For information see www.tourduruan.com) The route is also described by Hilary Sharp in Trekking in the Alps.
Day 1: Leaving Auberge de Salanfe go round the south side of the Salanfe lake and climb the narrow hanging valley leading to Col d’Emaney, from where the tip of the Matterhorn can be seen far to the east. Descend into the head of the little valley below the Pointes d’Aboillon, wander down the glen to the Emaney chalets, then break away on an alternative path which crosses the stream and climbs to the Col de Fenestral at 2451m. With the Mont Blanc range in view, go down to the Finestral alpage, then contour round to Lac d’Emosson and cross the massive dam wall (more great views of Mont Blanc). Either continue along a service road, or take a signed path through the Gorge du Vieux towards the southern end of Lac du Vieux Emosson. The timber-built Refuge Vieux Emosson (2200m) stands below the dam that closes the eastern end of the lake, and is gained about 7½–8hrs after setting out.
Day 2: A short walk above the refuge leads to the Vieux Emosson lake where you make an arc round its north shore, pass the dinosaur prints (see box) and cross the bounding ridge (with chain safeguards) into France at the cone-shaped Cheval Blanc (2831m). Should you have the energy, and the weather is good, an option here is to make the ascent of Mont Buet at 3096m. Descending into the Combe de Buet the Tour visits the little Lac du Plan du Buet, and continues among limestone towers before descending to the Chalet-Refuge du Grenairon which provides accommodation above the Giffre valley at 1974m, about 5½hrs from the Vieux Emosson refuge.
Day 3: Much of this day is spent working towards the head of the Giffre valley blocked by the Dents Blanche–Mont Ruan wall, and with the huge Tenneverge ridge which carries the Franco-Swiss border, soaring 1900m above to the right. A 1000m descent takes you down to the valley, at first on limestone, then through meadows lavish with flowers in early summer. Crossing the valley in its upper reaches near the Chalets du Boret, the way then climbs a little over 500m to gain the CAF-owned Refuge de la Vogealle at 1901m.
Day 4: The final stage of the Tour du Ruan returns to Switzerland at the 2395m Col de Sageroux, about 1½hrs above the hut, then cuts along the ridge heading east over the Tête des Ottans to Col des Ottans, which is 100m higher than Sageroux, and from where you descend steeply (caution required) into the Vallon de Susanfe. From Cabane de Susanfe head upvalley, cross Col de Susanfe and make the descent into the Salanfe basin to complete the circuit at Auberge de Salanfe at the end of a 6½hr day.
Mont Ruan and the Tour Sallière, seen from the Pas d’Encel
Clouds hang low over Lac d’Emosson
Lacs d’Emosson
In common with the St Bernard Express (see Chapter 2) the Mont Blanc Express which begins in Martigny must be one of Europe’s slowest ‘express’ trains. Grinding slowly along the left bank of the Gorges du Trient it has a station at Finhaut, an unpretentious resort whose buildings appear to cascade down the steep hillside. The tourist office is located at the railway station (www.finhaut.ch) at the lower end of the village which has a modest number of shops, a bank, a small choice of hotel and pension accommodation, and a 14-place dortoir, Les Alpes. A few kilometres further upvalley Le Châtelard marks the border with France, and it is here that rail passengers bound for Chamonix need to change trains. Le Châtelard has two hotels and a funicular, said to be the world’s steepest with a gradient of 87%, linking with a narrow-gauge tourist train and a ‘mini funicular’ to provide access with Lac d’Emosson (www.emosson-trains.ch). The same reservoir’s dam can also be reached in summer by road from Finhaut, and by a public bus service from Martigny.
The route to Finhaut and Col de la Gueulaz above the Emosson dam breaks away from the main Martigny to Chamonix road a short distance outside Le Châtelard. It makes for a scenically exciting drive, for as you sweep up the hillside a view opens through the upper Vallée du Trient to its glacier, then as you pass above Finhaut a retrospective view to the northeast reveals the Bernese Alps beyond the Rhône valley, and finally and most remarkably, Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles dominate the southern horizon with a vision of snow, ice and jagged granite ramparts.
Col de la Gueulaz (1965m) marks the roadhead with plenty of parking space, a bus stop, tourist information kiosk, a restaurant, public toilets, a small chapel and views overlooking the Lac d’Emosson. By walking up the steep path above the chapel for 10–15mins, the modest summit of Six Jeur unfolds a truly impressive panorama, and is recommended.
From the dam Lac d’Emosson is seen stretching north for about 4.5km towards the head of the Barberine valley where Mont Ruan and the Tour Sallière close it off with an arc of rock and ice. Despite the intrusion of the massive dam wall, it is an enticing, wild-looking district with several worthwhile outings for both walkers and climbers, but it’s difficult to resist speculating how lovely the valley must have been before the first dam was built here in 1926. Until then the Barberine valley was noted for its alpine pastures and small farms; it was visited by a few climbers, botanists and perhaps chamois hunters, and it was near the head of the valley on its west side that Jacques Balmat, who had made the first ascent of Mont Blanc with Dr Paccard, lost his life in 1834 when prospecting for gold.
The smaller Vieux Emosson lake which lies in a combe further to the west was dammed in 1950, then in 1975 the Barberine dam was superseded by a massive 150m high barrage created as part of a joint Franco-Swiss hydro scheme. This effectively drowned that part of the valley which had survived the initial flooding, including a number of chalets and an inn. Yet despite its effect on the valley, in truth the dam wall is not only a fine piece of civil engineering, but it makes an extraordinary vantage point, having an uninterrupted outlook to Mont Blanc in one direction, and to the Tour Sallière and the lake in the other. But it is also noteworthy for another reason – a line of holds has been fitted to make this one of the most impressive artificial climbing walls in the Alps.
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